Having seen many documentaries of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world at nearly 4000 metres above sea level, I was looking forward to visiting Puno and the floating islands of Urus in Peru. After a long bus journey from Arequipa to Puno we were keen to explore the area and visit the islands.
What we encountered was not as I had pictured it. Although a spectacular place to visit with an incredible history I felt that the commercialisation of Puno and the islands, through tourism, is destroying its character. There were umpteen tourist boats visiting the islands all day long. Tours normally include a visit to one of the islands where you learn a little bit about the history and are encouraged to buy souvenirs at inflated prices, a boat ride (at an extra cost) on one of the fancy reed boats built for tourists and a visit to the self proclaimed capital of Uros with tourist shops and a restaurant.
Locals told us that the lake’s water level had fallen dramatically – they blamed climate change – and over fishing, raw sewage and chemical pollution is posing a threat to the lake’s wildlife and the beautiful Uru people who live on the islands. Plastic pollution is also beginning to show.
We were told ambitious plans by islanders to create more floating hotels and islands – this is a bad news – tourism should be curbed to stop further damage but how can this be promoted and sustained if increased wealth and for example an opportunity to send your children to university is at stake?
This leads me to believe that a call for action is needed by the council of the islands of Uros, Puno’s council and national governments, to promote conscious and sustainable tourism and tackle pollution and polluters. Some plans are in progress but we know that it takes time, money and political power.
Travelers as well have their part to play by choosing wisely when it comes to modes of transport and if you are using a tour organiser check their sustainability credentials. Try and avoid plastic and recycle where possible. Engaging in discussion with locals is a good way to understand and debate the issues. We pointed out for example the plastic floating on the lake, which the locals are well aware off and are trying to clean up but with an increase in tourism this may prove an endless task.
The Uru people have historically traded goods to sustain themselves and survive but now that tourism dollars are flowing freely into the community the bar has been raised.
Ironically the floating islands are of course made popular by the many documentaries and travelers who have been before. It’s a dilemma for travelers, locals and governments the world over. Isla de Taquile, one of the islands in the lake, promotes sustainable tourism and does it well but when you visit with one of the organised tours you don’t really get a chance to experience the island and its people fully. You are escorted from one end of the island to the other and there isn’t much time to spend. But this may well be the future of tourism.
Machu Piccchu (more about this in a future post) has supposedly capped the number of people visiting – but is this enough to safeguard this amazing place?
Have a look at this video and tell me what you think.
Further articles you might like to read on the topic: